Help my dog is dog reactive to other dogs!
Motives for reactivity
What to do
Equipment
Leash Walking
Desensitize
Muzzles
Medical Issues
Pain
Pre-Incident Indicators
Personality, Temperament & Character
Managing Your Anxiety
Come Equipped
Mislabeled Dogs (Bubble Reactivity)
Dog to Dog Introductions
Resources
One common behavior that frustrates dog owners is reactivity and/or aggression toward other dogs. This can be a very challenging and time consuming behavior to work through to gain control and to get your dog exercising self-control at least in your presence. Many dogs are out of control when they see another dog. They will whine, bark, lunge, etc… even when the dog is at a great distance. Dogs can act this way out of excitement, frustration, fear, pain, and sometimes out of aggression. There is a much greater chance of improving our dogs behavior when it is predictable. Context is important when working through these issues and it can require the help of a knowledgeable individual to determine the reasons for a dog’s reactions. Most dogs can learn to be in the presence of other dogs without acting out. For some dogs the behavior can be greatly improved but they will always need to be supervised and managed in every situation. Although dogs may come to enjoy or at least accept dogs, we must always keep in mind this is not likely to apply to every dog they meet. Another important consideration is a dog’s bite history. If a dog has a serious bite history, or escalating bite history increasing in damage consult with a professional for an assessment. Review the “Dog Bite Scale” here.
Often people say they would like their dog to be friendly toward dogs they meet and or they would like them to learn to play with other dogs without it getting out of control or turning into aggression. I think a more reasoned position would be how do we keep a dog from reacting to dogs who are acting appropriately and respectfully, and not rude. A realistic and reasonable primary goal is to prevent dogs from feeling the need to react to other dogs and at a minimum ignore or tolerate appropriate respectful dogs.
Displays of Aggression (Reactive)
Acts of Aggression
With aggression displays (Reactive) it is often for the purpose of increasing the distance between them and the target, but it can simply be due to excitement or frustration (over-arousal). Acts of aggression (Intent to do harm) are for the purpose of gaining control of territory, resources, protection of others, protection of position, or protection of self.
Most fearful dogs that I have encountered I would classify as “reactive” and not “aggressive”. I consider “aggressive” as the intent to do harm and most fear based dogs have no such initial intent, but rather default to being reactive in order to accomplish what they need; time and distance.
The behavior is often motivated by:
Nervous reactivity/aggression (Fear)
Excitement (High-arousal)
Territorial
Frustration reactivity (Over-arousal)
Bullying & Intimidation
Aggression - Intent to do harm outside the context of territorial or protection.
Mislabeled Aggression
Pain
Nervous reactivity/aggression (Fear)
There are numerous reasons this behavior develops. Behavior problems can often start at the breeders (or wherever the puppies are raised) from 5-8 weeks, or the groundwork for this behavior can get its start at “puppy class” before 16-weeks of age. To understand how breeders or early puppy raisers can contribute to this behavior read “How to buy a puppy”.
A common way this behavior develops is a lack of proper dog socialization before 16-weeks of age during the critical primary socialization period. A proper socialization program is not as simple as giving a puppy the opportunity to play with other puppies or dogs. To better understand early socialization and puppy classes visit the socialization page. Socialization prior to 16-weeks presents a challenge since this is the period of time when the puppy is susceptible to disease. More veterinarians today are now recommending early socialization for puppies as long as appropriate precautions are taken. The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) has stated “that it should be the standard of care for puppies to receive such socialization before they are fully vaccinated.” (Socialization) Unfortunately there are still veterinarians today advising owners basically to quarantine their puppy until they completes their full set of vaccinations.
A puppy can learn reactive behavior from its mother or other dogs in the home either at the breeders or at their new home. If the puppy’s mother or another dog is reactive towards other dogs and the puppy witnesses this behavior then the puppy in the early weeks of life can learn to be frightened of other dogs and how to be reactive because they had an early role model(s) for the behavior.
Another way this behavior can develop is if the puppy has been attacked by an older dog. Timid dogs “socialized” at the dog park are more likely to be bullied, and now we have possibly laid the foundation for fear aggression to develop. Overly assertive, pushy, rude, or simply unruly dogs will often target timid, fearful or easily overwhelmed dogs. What is bullying behavior or an attack is determined by the puppy. It could be full on aggression toward the puppy or it could be rough inappropriate play or being bowled over for a timid puppy. This could result in the puppy being reactive toward dogs similar to the one that attacked them, or it could make the puppy insecure and reactive in the same environment. (e.g. park, building, exiting vehicle, confined space, vet’s office, etc…) Repeated traumatic events can cause the puppy to develop fear and anxiety to all areas or all dogs.
If a dog will run over 50’ to get to another dog not on its property I think you can rule out fear as the cause of the reactivity/aggression.
If you have a young reactive/fearful dog don’t look for opportunities to “socialize” them without a proper plan. Your dog should not be around other dogs straining at the leash (or off leash) to get to your dog no matter how well-intention the other dog is.
““Believing that what the young dog needs is more social contact with lots of unknown dogs is the first mistake. What the dog actually needs is some good multiple exposures to nice dogs one at a time. Until your dog has learned to be less afraid and trust one other dog, it is pointless to expose it to lots of them.””
Group dog training classes should also be avoided for many fearful dogs. Imagine it from your dog’s perspective. They are restrained by a leash (flight is not possible) and without your consent they are forced into a group with other dogs some rude, others barking, and still others straining on the leash to reach them. The reactive behavior may intensify after the first few classes. Over a short period of time the dog learns that when restrained on a leash reactive behavior will usually accomplish what it desires which is distance from other dogs. When they have an outburst it will generally cause the other dog’s owner to pull the other day away, and their owner will pull them away creating distance quickly from the other dog. Behavior that creates a desirable outcome will be repeated.
Excitement
Reactive dogs are often motivated out of excitement (high-arousal), which can lead to frustration. Many times humans have unintentionally created this behavior because dogs were never taught how to be appropriately social around other dogs in an appropriate manner. Dogs that pull on leash, strain, and whine to get to another dog “just to say hi” should not be going to a dog park to play with other dogs or be greeting another dog on while on a leash. Another way this can be created with a young dog is in a group training class. Many classes like to teach a meet and greet with dogs on leash. This can create the same problem. The dog may have learned that it is okay to actively search out other dogs when they are in public. Each class they learn to approach another dog on leash and then we take them out at home and they see another dog and can become frustrated when they are not permitted to go greet or play with the other dog. Many trainers now discourage dogs from meeting other dogs while on a leash. If a dog's life experience around other dogs is to strain to get to them to “say hi” or excited over-arousal play it is much easier to create frustration in the dog when we place them on a leash. This can be a problem with many dogs in daycare/boarding, dog parks, etc… Too many times the lesson dogs learn is that when you see another dog, run to the other dog to greet or play. Patterns create habits which can lead to inappropriate behavior. For proper leash greeting when acceptable see “dog introductions” below.
Dog parks or well-run daycare’s may be okay for dogs that are easy going, polite, and have appropriate canine social skills but that requires that all the dogs fit the same profile. At dog parks or daycare the dogs that visit on the same days and times can develop their own park culture. These dogs can be well socialized as a group, but a new dog entering the dog park can be looked upon as an outsider which can be a source of conflict.
Territorial
Humans have bred some dogs to naturally be more territorial. Guarding breeds often will start to bark at others near their home at about 9-10 months of age. Territorial displays differ from fear aggression. We can control this behavior by understanding each breed type and seeing that our training is designed to put those instincts and behaviors under control. A dog can be both territorial and fear aggressive so it’s important to get fear under control. If a dog’s behavior is strictly territorial (vs fear, over-arousal, etc.) the behavior can provide clues about their relationship with their owners or the people they live with. A dog needs to realize that they are not responsible for the humans and the territory, but rather they are responsible to the humans. A dog that realizes they are responsible to the humans does not believe the environment allows them the liberty to act as they please. Dogs should feel responsible to us, not for us and should accepting of people and dogs we choose to associate with. I’m sure it goes without saying, but you need to act calm and under control (not concerned) around people your dog does not trust. You don’t need to establish an authoritarian relationship to be considered the one responsible for the territory, you just need to lead. Dominance: Alpha's & Leaders
It’s important to understand we do not “fix” normal, but we can have a guarding breed with guarding tendencies that is not reactive or aggressive. Our dogs’ genetics and previous learning gives opportunities for behaviors to develop, but the environment we establish gives the dog the opportunities to develop and practice both good and bad behavior thus strengthening it. Those things practiced become habits and/or patterns of conduct that are hard to break. One of the first questions I look to the dog for an answer is how does the dog perceive their role within the environment and what are the dog’s expectations of how to behave?
Our goal is to always be in control and when necessary “take control” and not “fight for control.” Understand that all reactive/aggressive behavior is caused by the need to establish control. It’s important for you to be in control and remove opportunities for dogs to practice (or continue to practice) the wrong behavior. Behavior that is practiced becomes stronger and opportunities/patterns create habits and expectations. When a negative behavior is predictable, prepare by limiting the chances of the behavior occurring with management not confrontation.
Dogs that are out of our verbal control should not be unsupervised in the yard or other areas where there behavior would be inappropriate. This includes occupying areas near entrances and exits where the behavior can be more intense. The reoccurring theme is we want to remove any further practice/rehearsal of inappropriate behavior. If we do not have full verbal control over a dog when they are not in a high state of arousal there should be no expectation that we will have any control when they are arousal or worked up over something in the environment. Training with dogs exhibiting inappropriate territorial behavior starts with a solid foundation of control training in every area of life. When we get the training right we can place those instincts under our control regardless of what else is occurring or activating the dog.
Frustration
Frustration is an all too common way dogs become reactive or aggressive toward other dogs.
“If you have a problem of dog-to-dog aggression, it is probably down to the fact that your dog enjoys playing fighting games with other dogs or is frustrated by the fact that it cannot get at the other dog to play such games. ”
Dog Parks & Daycare (Bullying & Intimidation)
Confident dogs that were “socialized” at doggie daycare or the dog park can become overly aroused and out of control around other dogs. Some confident dogs that practice high-arousal play with other dogs will often come to enjoy bullying/intimidation type “games” that involve jumping and bumping, chasing, biting the heels and neck, although it’s just “play”. Almost without exception when these dogs are out of your reach they are out of your control. When I hear an owner yelling out “he’s friendly” in response to another dog owner loudly telling them to call their dog that is running their way, what I see and hear is the owner of the “he’s friendly” dog has no control and no verbal control over their dog. For this reason their dog should not be permitted off leash in an area where the owner has no control.
mislabeled dogs
“one of the most disturbing scenarios is the situation where a dog is acting appropriately but nonetheless is punished (in the name of “training”) by humans who do not understand what constitutes normal canine behavior and responses.”
Rude Behavior
Fearful
Pain Related Aggression
Many dogs are labeled “aggressive” when in fact they are responding in an appropriate canine fashion to another dog. Two groups of dogs commonly mislabeled as aggressive are fear based dogs and dogs responding appropriately to a rude dog.
Rude Behavior
One point of contention is when a dog appropriately corrects another dog’s rude behavior too often the humans blame the dog who addressed the dog with the rude behavior, and not the dog exhibiting the rude behavior/provocation. Rude behavior on another dog’s part can be something as simple as being pushy and invading space, or it can be boisterous, rambunctious, loud, and include body contact. Because the humans did not address and stop the rude behavior, a dog dealt with the issue in a canine manner. In these cases often the humans neglected their responsibilities and the truly innocent dog often gets the blame. https://suzanneclothier.com/article/just-wants-say-hi/
We need to be our dog’s advocate and part of that responsibility requires us protect our dogs from dogs that are rude or out of control.
Fearful
Fearful dogs react to space invaders while other dogs react to rude behavior. The big challenge for most owners is they do not understand what behavior is appropriate and inappropriate in specific contexts. Overreacting to appropriate behavior and excusing inappropriate behavior can both create or fuel the behavior we were hoping to prevent.
It’s important to understand that all reactive/aggressive behavior is caused by the need to establish control. Most fear based dogs default to being reactive in order to accomplish what they need; time and distance. When “reaction” will not accomplish time and distance, “action” almost always will. It’s important to understand a fear based dog was not totally fine and then just snapped either figuratively or literally. Dogs just like humans have an area around themselves that is considered personal space. How big this space is for humans will often depend on what country/culture the person is from. Intrusion into this invisible bubble can cause discomfort for both us and our dogs for a number of reasons. What determines the level of discomfort if any is dependent on the context and the relationship of those who enter this space. A dog does not need to enter this space with hostile intentions to make your dog feel uncomfortable.
It’s important that we don’t misinterpret what we consider to be “no reaction” as “calm”, or “comfortable”. A dog can be on-alert or highly aroused (fearful, etc.) and be “still” at the same time. A dog that is sitting on its own or having been asked to sit in the presence of dogs they do not trust is not necessarily calm, comfortable, or feeling secure. And asking a fearful dog to focus on the owner with or without a food treat to distract them or interrupt their behavior will not make the dog any more comfortable if they don’t feel safe because the dog(s) of concern is still present, or at least too close. It does not work for humans either. To test the theory invite a friend who trusts you to join you at a location where you will surprise him/her by having variety of their most favorite foods prepared and placed on a dining table. In the same room stage a spider, snake, mouse, lizard, alligator, or clown, etc… or whatever thing that would frighten them under normal circumstances at the other end of the room. Your friend’s reaction and level of comfort will likely be affected by the distance. You can test their reaction by using an average size dining room, and an extremely large warehouse. If the creature or clown is far enough away you may be able to convince them to sit at the table to enjoy the food you had prepared. Or you may find there is no way they are going to sit at the table let alone take their eyes off the thing or clown of concern no matter how fabulous the food on the table. If the distance from the thing of concern is great enough and they do sit at the table sit down next to them and place a cloth napkin in your lap. Then without drawing any attention to what you are doing let the napkin fall from your lap onto their leg or foot. Did they scream, jump up, run away, etc… Even if people or your dog trusts you the trust alone will not provide any magic to help them overcome fear.
Having a dog sit in some circumstances may be appropriate, but for a fearful dog having them sit in close proximity (from the dog’s perspective) to those they are unsure of can add to the insecurity. Much like us humans, we likely would not choose to sit on a park bench if there were an unruly group of individuals close by that caused us concern.
Pain-Related Aggression
Many dogs misllabeled as aggressive are experiencing pain. Its not uncommon for dogs that have back or hip pain to become reactive to excited or rude dogs invading their space. Many have come to the conclusion that this tactic is necessary to keep other dogs from jumping on them (even in play) or to avoid other types of body contact. Dogs that are in pain can act irritable and aggressive and justificble so when around rude or space invading dogs. Irritability and aggression can continue even after an injury has healed or when the pain is no longer present due to the dog becoming sensitized to body contact that was painful.
What to do?
The first rule is to only do what is safe and things you are completely comfortable doing. You are ultimately responsible for your own safety. Anytime there are behavioral issues it is always good to rule out any health issues that may be contributing to the problem which can result in irritability or anxiety.
Pain and Problem Behavior in Cats and Dogs
It’s common for people to tell you that the dog will feel comfortable and not react as long as you are comfortable. There is an element of truth to that statement in the right context. But this is not a guarantee the dog will not react. Our behavior can have a big impact dogs. It is important that the humans look truly relaxed, and in control. When we get concerned you can be sure the dogs pick up on this. (See “Managing Your Anxiety” below) Often before we tighten the leash we hold our breath and the dogs pick up on this. We need to be the role model for the behavior we want to see in our dogs. If we want our dog to be calm, we need to role model that behavior. How we interact with others and things can affect our dog’s view of them.
The first place to start is to remove the opportunities for the dog to continue to practice the wrong behavior. Behavior that is practiced becomes stronger and opportunities/patterns create habits and expectations on how to act around others. When a negative behavior is predictable, prepare by limiting the chances of the behavior occurring. It all starts with management not confrontation. Attempting to use physical force on the dog can be seen as a confrontation and the dog may accept your challenge. The goal is to “take control” and not “fight for control”. Taking control steers away from being confrontational but still places you in control.
With any behavior we wish to change the first to place to start is by removing the opportunities for the dog to practice the unwanted behavior. Meaning no dog parks, no daycare, no playing with other dogs, period. For at least the next 5-weeks there is to be no play, excitement/arousal around other dogs, nor any unsupervised time with another dog. (Part of the current problem is high arousal so remove the rehearsal/practice) So if a dog plays with another dog 40min each day, now the owners need to fulfill the play needs of their dog. The goal is to make the owners more desirable and fun. I want to see dogs that will leave another dog to return and play a game with their owners. Sometimes it can be that simple.
The number one rule is never permit a dog to put their mouths on another dog even in “play”. They are not permitted to do anything with dogs they know that would be inappropriate if they ran up to another dog they did not know. e.g. jumping on another dog, biting even in play, etc… Dogs should only put their teeth on a toy and not another dog or human.
With every dog it is important to evaluate whether the dog is getting all their needs met (attention, social interaction, exercise, mental stimulation) and making their life more interesting. Variety can be the key to an enriching life for dogs. Engage all five of the dogs' senses, to make their days more interesting. Anything that is unchanging is no longer unique and loses its value quickly. Dogs engaged in enrichment activities are less likely to develop the inappropriate behaviors that are the result of boredom, stress, and frustration. Making your dog’s life more interesting.
One of the first places to start is to evaluate the relationship between the dog and owner. How much control and cooperation do the owners have overall; in the home, feeding, at the door, play, etc…? I first determine the level of restraint/management being used vs cooperation in every facet. Many times owners must learn how to achieve control and cooperation in other areas to lay the foundation for resolving the reactive issues. If you do not have full control over your dog start with this short guide; Finding A Balance, by Suzanne Clothier
One primary goal is to teach dogs to ignore other dogs and to be socially pleasant and confident around strange dogs. It starts with the dog over-learning how to walk properly on a leash.
Teaching loose leash walking skills
Equipment
MARTINGALE COLLAR BY CANINUS COLLARS
First understand none of these “tools” are necessary to train or work with dogs. Choke chains, prong collars, e-collars, and restrictive front clip harnesses like the Freedom Harness, and Easy Walk Harness, etc. To avoid inflicting damage avoid thin collars and do not place the collar high, right behind the ears.
“What equipment do I use for a reactive dog?” I use a properly fitted martingale collar. When working with reactive dogs any “tool” can have risks. My first choice is a martingale collar fitted properly (just snug enough so the dog cannot escape and no more) so I can be sure the dog cannot get free. I use the widest collar that is reasonable for each dog. I use a very soft nylon or hemp martingale collar as wide as practical for each dog. For medium size dogs I use a 1” soft martingale collar, for larger dogs I like to use a 1 ½” soft martingale collar, and for extra large dogs with a 24” neck or larger I prefer a 2” wide soft martingale collar.
For more information on collars click or top here.
Regardless of what leash or lead you use it’s important to always inspect anything you use looking for signs of tearing or excessive wear. Webbing breaks and friction will contribute to the wear of the hardware resulting in loosening of the swivel, thinning of the metals, and even stretching of the snap on the head or the swivel. Rust and the environment can also result in the snap bolt trigger starting to stick or becoming rigid. Having a leash snap/break while attached to a 150 lb dog was enough reason for me to always check leashes and collars after that experience and to use my equipment and not a clients. Fortunately the dog was friendly and just wanted to run and greet a neighbor, all be it a little too enthusiastically. Snap hooks/bolts are available in a variety of configurations and metals. Each has their own strengths and weakness. I believe the breaking strength or Working Load Limit (WLL) of most snap hooks/bolts are more than sufficient for the majority of dogs. But with that being said, there are many people who have experienced snap bolts breaking. Most snap hooks/bolts found on leashes are made with nickel plated malleable iron, or are nickel plated zinc die cast. The strongest are made from stainless steel. Brass would be my second choice. Brass is less likely to break because it’s a more malleable metal, but also the heaviest.
For reactive dogs I minimize the amount of leash they have to minimize unintended corrections. A dog hitting the end of a 6’ leash will get a large correction so I work with the leash shorten to minimize unintended corrections. I will use a bungee leash at times to lessen any unintended impact, but only when working at a safe distance from other dogs and its safe to do so. Any equipment we place on our dogs should be done with care. On rare occasions I will use a head halter device for large dogs that are out of control. These are restraint tools that I consider a last resort and restrict their use to short-term and only with large dogs who are out of control. Whatever tools you use, look to make it as pleasant as possible for the dog while still maintaining control until you get your dog’s cooperation. We ultimately want dogs to desire to be with us, not find us punishing.
The Problem With Head Halters
The Problem With Harnesses
The importance of teaching good leash walking skills is that a dog cannot be both walking nicely on a leash and be aware of the location and pace of the person walking them, and be pulling, lunging, or barking, etc… at another dog. Reactive dogs need the least distracting environments to start so it may require finding a controlled environment to start. There is no way to completely control the environment unless you have access to a private location. “Life happens” so I choose places where I can create distance if needed. I choose the best environment possible for each dog I work with. Sometimes I start; in their own neighborhood, a quieter neighborhood, a park that I have several options to create distance from others if needed, and with some at a place where it was very unlikely we would ever see a dog.
Start at the leash walking skills page to learn the most successful method for teaching a dog to walk on a loose leash. Leash Walking Skills
Teach To Walk Without Pulling on Leash
Once the dog has basically over-learned how to walk on a loose leash, practice the leash walking at a distance from other dogs making sure to stay outside the reactivity distance. This is especially important with highly excitable/aroused dogs. Many owners have told me their dog walks nicely but there is always a caveat; unless he sees another dog, cat, rabbit, or squirrel, etc… My definition of a dog that walks nicely on a leash is a dog will stay connected to its owner and under control "even if" another dog, cat, squirrel, etc… Once the dog has basically over-learned how to walk on a loose leash then I incorporate parallel walking at a distance. That distance can be 20’ or 400’. If the dog is reactive at 400’, we work at 410’ to start. Then we keep moving closer over the days in small steps as long as we stay outside the reactivity distance. We then work toward passing other dogs at whatever distance is required to stay below reactivity. All with the goal to have the dogs appropriately social with other dogs, so they are not reacting or struggling against the leash to get to every dog they see. The goal is to teach self-control in the presence of other dogs and people.
For most reactive/excited dogs I’m not a fan of “see a dog get a treat”. With these dogs they don’t need any encouragement to look for dogs, they need to learn to ignore and be socially proper around dogs. This technique is often used in an attempt to classically condition the dog to associate another dog with something good, e.g. treats. Dogs are often mistakenly rewarded for their persistence and fixation, and not for redirecting their attention to us or for exercising self-control or cooperating. Behavior that is rewarded will generally strengthen. There needs to be a disassociation time between the reaction/fixation on another dog and anything that could be considered a reward. I would be looking for 2-minutes of self-control and appropriate behavior before offering anything viewed as a reward so there is disassociation time between the behavior we do not want the behavior we want to strengthen.
To redirect, distract, or counter-condition a reward must be used when a dog is not in a heighten state of arousal. Once we have lost their mind, understand we are no longer training, we are left with management. When a dog is showing interest but not excitement or high arousal, redirect their attention to you and praise them and let them know you appreciate them exercising self-control (but only if the behavior is now appropriate) and if they are not pulling or straining on the leash. If your dog focuses on you in anticipation of something more valuable then what they left, smile and tell them how thankful you are for their attention but don’t offer a reward yet. First with a smile and good attitude ask them to comply with your request to; sit, lie down, stand, shake, touch, speak, spin, wave, etc… Ask for a total of two or three behaviors. (Any time you do this ask for a different set of behaviors or at least in a different order.) If they comply smile and praise them and then offer the reward. The reason for delaying the reward is that we want to put a disassociation time between the fixation on another dog and a reward. This way the dog is getting the reward for complying with your requests and not for reacting or fixating on another dog.
Often times when people are using the “see a dog, get a treat, if you watch closely it often looks more like a marathon runner changing their focus for a brief second to grab a cup of water while they continue to run. The dog’s focus often goes right back to the other dog, and we likely had no effect on their emotional engagement.
When working with dogs timing is of absolute importance. Dogs just like us cannot be both cognitive functioning and emotional/reactive at the same time. (Although they can quickly bounce back and forth) A dog cannot be both walking nicely on a leash and be aware of my location, and be pulling, barking, etc… at the same time. So “before” I see unproductive arousal from the dog I immediately change directions. (be unpredictable) If we wait until the dog pulls the collar pressure is now on the front of the dog’s neck which is what we want to avoid. So by turning around before there is tension in the leash and lowering the leash below the dog’s base of the neck, the tension will be on the side of the neck stopping any forward movement and now turning him around. With the hand lowered as the dog turns around now in a following position the immediate pressure will be on the top of the neck as we gently pull/lead him forward to the appropriate position. If we have built “good” loose leash walking skills the dog will be patterned to refocus on the person holding the leash (without a word said) and will avoid placing any tension in the leash.
Another important point is to not let the dog move forward unless they are exercising self-control. Meaning they will not exit the house, gate, or car unless completely under control and given them permission. Be careful not to move so fast that you are rewarding them for persistent. For example, as soon as you exit request they sit while you calmly shut and lock the door. If the dog is not a wild child I may not ask for a sit as long as they wait patiently for me. If this means it takes 10-minutes for them to exercise self-control I take the time because soon the dog will realize that his persistence gains nothing. Consistency will result in a dog cooperating in a shorter amount of time as you continue to practice.
I’m big on “permission” when working with dogs. Meaning I want them to sniff and have opportunities to explore. But it must be with permission. Many owners get this wrong. The dog will be distracted and pulling and just as soon as the owner pulls/guides the dog back to where they should be they give the dog “permission” to move away, sniff, explore, etc… What they get wrong is there was not a 10-second disassociation time between guiding them back and the dog exercising self-control before releasing them to sniff. Dogs are often rewarded for persistent, not being under control or cooperating.
READ PAGES 303-335
Desensitizing
Dogs respond or react in differing ways to sounds like barking. Just hearing another dog can result in highly excitable reactions or the dog becoming agitated. There is a big difference in responding and reacting. We would prefer to hear a doctor say we are responding to the medication rather than reacting to the medication. A dog that alerts but maintains control would be considered responding, but a dog that loses control (or we have lost control of the dog) would be reacting. In this context responding is functional and reacting dysfunctional.
Soundtracks when used properly can help desensitize dogs and lower the intensity of a dog’s reaction to hearing other dogs. Soundtracks can be used to habituate or desensitize a dog to the sound of another dog barking. How we use a soundtrack is dependent on the dog’s behavior. Our primary goal is for dogs to behave in a functional manner not dysfunctional. For soundtracks and guidance on their use start here.
To minimize a dog reacting to sounds of dogs outside the home we can play music recording to help mask the sounds of other dogs. Playing music can help mask sounds by distracting and diverting a dog’s attention from the noises that result in high-arousal. Playing fast moving happy feet music or busy bluegrass can mask the sounds of dogs outside and things like dog tags jingling.
For the majority of dogs we can resolve dog reactivity by strengthening the relationship between owner and dog, and the dog learning to walking nicely on a leash without pulling. It’s a simple straightforward process but it will take work, and consistency to see change. There are a small percentage of dogs that we need to set up specific situations for an individual dog to resolve the problem. But this comes after a solid foundation has been built between dog and owner, and the dog has learned proper leash walking skills. How we work with these dogs is dependent on what is motivating the behavior and the context in which it occurs. For more guidance on working with reactive/aggressive dogs please read these 32 pages (pages 303-335) in John Rogerson’s book “The Dog Vinci Code". (Chapters 52-55, 32 pages in total) You would be well-served after reading these specific pages to start at the first chapter and read the whole book.
https://amzn.to/2sfQ6yF
Pre-Incident Indicators
Dogs often start with non-verbal communication that shows they are not comfortable in a given situation. We may observe when a dog is stressed or uncomfortable in a situation the dog may resort to a behavior that is out of context for a given situation; e.g. sniffing the ground, starts to scratch, looks away avoiding eye contact, or flicks its tongue and licks its nose. But not everything a dog does should be interpreted as communication, or that they are uncomfortable in a given situation.
YELLOW LIGHT (CAUTION LIGHT)
Avoidance behaviors
Moves away
Sniffing the ground
Looks away avoiding eye contact
Stress/anxiety behaviors
Starts to scratch
Flicks its tongue and licks its nose
Lowers head
Crouches
High-arousal escalating behaviors (pre-incident indicators)
Exercise caution: a dog may only stiffen and close its mouth before moving to a bite.
Stiffening or freezing
Closes mouth
Whale eye: Turns head slightly to side and whites of the eyes are visible
Hard stare
Lip lift
Snarl
Growl
Snap (air-snap/ warning) if you have ignored/missed the other indications you may not receive this last warning.
Bite
Some people will notice a behavior change when a dog becomes tense/stiffens, mouth closes, or a hard stare long before they move to a lip lift, snarl, growl, or bite. We must be watching for a yellow caution signal so we are aware that the green light is about to turn red. Some dogs have a long yellow light and others have one that flashes quickly before we are confronted with a red light. Car accidents don’t happen in miles-per-hour (MPH) they happen in feet-per-seconds (fps) and it’s the same for dogs that come in contact with people. Incidents happen in feet and seconds. The sooner we see the yellow light the more reaction time we will have to avoid an impact.
Other Considerations
Muzzles
To lesson the chances of a dog biting you can use a correctly fitted basket muzzle. Do not use a sleeve or groomers muzzle.
A muzzle is not a tool to use to unnecessarily place a dog into a situation that they may react. Understand that a dog with a muzzle on should not be unrestrained around people or animals they could harm.
Dogs nor humans “just snap” or have sudden behavior changes unless there is a medical reason or impactful experience. Behavior does not change without a reason. Often times behavior changes gradually but people are not aware of the changes until it has moved further across the continuum. If there is a sudden change in behavior it is advisable that dogs be evaluated by a veterinarian.
The gut microbiome correlates with conspecific aggression in a small population of rescued dogs (Canis familiaris)
Aggression & Medical Issues
Behavior, Personality, Temperament, & Character
Personality is the combination of temperament and character.
Temperament = pre-disposition (heritable propensities)
Character = disposition, (learned style of coping or navigating the world)
Character develops through the interaction of temperament and environment
Character emerges as one matures and has more life experience
Patterns form habits
Temperament refers to the aspects of the dog’s character or personality that change little over a lifetime due to inherited traits and early life experiences which shapes behavior resulting in strong predispositions.
Character traits develop as a dog matures and are influenced by life experiences, preferences, routines, and practices.
A dog’s personality or temperament is consistent and changes little over a lifetime, although behavior can and does change, personality is generally consistent.
Behavior is influenced by five things. Genetics, inherited traits, early life experiences, the current environment, and the humans they live with.
Genetics determine physical traits such as; size, color, structure, coat type, energy level, and the inherited characteristics of a breed.
Traits such as nervousness, reactivity, body sensitivity, sound sensitivity, may be attributed to genetic factors, or they may be acquired and developed with early life experiences of the puppy in the first 12-weeks when these life experiences can both positively or negatively affect a dog’s confidence, emotional stability, timidity, fear, and phobias. [1]
Early life experiences – see socialization
We cannot change a dog’s temperament (pre-disposition), but we can affect their character (disposition). Character emerges as dogs mature and have more life experiences. We can affect character and our dog’s behavior by helping them learn coping skills and better ways to navigate the world. To what degree and intensity will be influenced to some extent by past experiences and the approach we take moving forward.
Dog will exhibit all types of normal dog behavior and it’s important to understand we can’t fix normal. Genetics give the ability and environment provides the opportunity for these traits to develop to their full potential. But through early learning, training, meeting our dog’s needs and forming the right relationship we can put those instincts under our control. To control those instincts requires ongoing training to keep those skills sharp and under our control. It takes work, time, and consistency to see change. As with many things it will require management, training and lots of patience.
Managing Your Anxiety
Dogs can be very sensitive to our stress/anxiety/ and fears and we can unintentionally be contributing to their behavior. We need to be the role-model for our dog’s behavior so we need to learn to minimize our anxiety/stress, fears, and concerns if we want to be able to help our dogs overcome theirs. Or at least develop their skills to cope in challenging circumstances.
How we respond/react/interact with others and things can affect our dog’s view of them. It’s important in situations that dogs find fearful or threaten, the humans look truly relaxed, and in control. When we get concerned you can be sure the dogs pick up on this. If we overreact or act inappropriately for the situation we can reinforce a dog’s behavior by validating their interpretation of the events leading to their behavior becoming learned response. Our actions can help build resilience or weaken it.
It’s common for people to tell you that the dog will feel comfortable with people as long as you are comfortable. There is an element of truth to that statement in the right context. But this is not a guarantee the dog will feel safe or be comfortable with others. Our behavior can have a big impact dogs. But don’t misunderstand, even if a dog trusts you that trust alone does not provide any magic to help them overcome fear.
Since we cannot always predict, we need to prepare.
Prepare by:
Manage the Environment
Box Breathing
Box Breathing and New Associations for your Dog
Come Equipped
Understanding anxiety & how to help your dog
Manage the Environment
Start by controlling as many variables as possible beginning with not placing you and your dog in situations that contribute to anxiety and fear. We owners need to be our dog’s “advocate” and part of that responsibility is that we do not place our dog’s unnecessarily into a situation where they feel uncomfortable or unsafe. It’s important to understand that all reactive/aggressive behavior is caused by the need to establish control. Most fear based dogs default to being reactive in order to accomplish what they need; time and distance. If we continue to place them in situations where they feel the need to react e.g. move away, growl, bark, etc. we may be creating the problem we were hoping to prevent.
Whenever possible give you and your dog distance and reaction time to maintain control, and lower the anxiety. If your dog is on a leash use a properly fitted all-fabric martingale collar with no buckles to prevent them from getting loose. A properly sized and fitted martingale collar is my collar of choice for dogs on leash and it’s my insurance a dog will not get loose by backing out of a collar or harness, and it’s more comfortable for dogs. https://www.homeskooling4dogs.com/dog-collars
Box Breathing
When dogs are close to us they often notice when we stop breathing. When people stop breathing they often clench their fist which changes the tension on the leash and how they sound when they communicate with their dogs, and our dogs take notice. To overcome this we can incorporate a one-minute box breathing exercise which is also called four-square breathing.
https://getpocket.com/explore/item/beat-stress-like-a-navy-seal-with-this-ridiculously-easy-exercise
https://www.healthline.com/health/box-breathing
Breathe in for four seconds.
Hold air in your lungs for four seconds.
Exhale for four seconds.
Hold your breath, lungs emptied, for four seconds.
Repeat (4x)
Box Breathing and New Associations for your Dog
We can practice box breathing several times a day as outlined but I would incorporate these changes. Stand up straight, relax, stay calm, and smile! We don’t want to make our dogs any more concerned with our behavior. Start by practicing inside the home and whenever possible incorporate your dog into the exercise. Use the box breathing exercise as an opportunity to teach your dog good things come when you are breathing in a box pattern. This can also teach your dog to focus on you and not the thing or circumstance that causes you and your dog anxiety. As you work through each of the four breathing cycles add a smile and slowly toss your dog a small food treat. If he can catch a treat toss so they can catch it. If not toss the treat a short distance behind them and repeat. You can also start to toss the treat just behind you so your dog now has to move behind you to get it. Toss slowly so after a while your dog needs to focus on you to see where you will toss the treat. But before you toss any treat you must smile first. After your dog has the concept start to make the timing of your food treat toss random or a surprise. Meaning, don’t get into a pattern of tossing treats every one, two, or three, seconds. We want our dogs to have the expectation of good things coming from us when we smile and choose to deliver them, not learn treats arrive at specific intervals which can create an expectation or entitlement after waiting a set period of time. Once this is a well-practiced exercise in the home start to work outside in as many locations as reasonable.
This does a couple of helpful things. Your dog starts to focus on you, and now when you are working to stay calm and in control yourself your dog looks to you with the anticipation of good things and is not focusing on things of concern. If we toss treats, they are now running to something good, and not running from something of concern, or running at something of concern in order to control it and make it stop or go away.
“According to the Mayo Clinic, there’s sufficient evidence that intentional deep breathing can actually calm and regulate the autonomic nervous system (ANS).”
https://www.healthline.com/health/box-breathing#exhale-again
Come Equipped
If you or your dog are anxious outside the home due to our of control dogs come prepared. Your dog should be securely fastened to a leash, and often its best to just create distance from the thing of concern and walk away if it can be done safely. It is your responsibility to keep your dog safe, and other people’s responsibility to keep their dog from bothering you or your dog. If someone is concerned or complains about one of these tactics you used to protect yourself or your dog, don’t waste time arguing with them. If they were responsible and reasonable their dog would not be free to bother you or your dog.
Loose dogs approaching can be a problem so come prepared for uninvited encounters. To keep dogs at a distance and from making contact with you or your dog there are several things you can try.
Toss a tennis ball bouncing along the ground to the left or right of the approaching dog in hopes the dog stops traveling your direction and instead heads toward the tennis ball. You could call this the “squirrel” technique.
Toss a handful of treats toward the dog in hopes they will stop to investigate and eat the treats while you depart the area and create distance. Be sure to use treats that are heavy enough to toss at a reasonable distance.
Nether food treats or tennis balls are likely to startle your own dog if you need to deploy them to startle or distract another dog from approaching.
One caveat that needs to be considered with walking dogs that resource guards toys or food. Carrying food or tennis balls may heighten your dogs arousal due to the fact they desire to protect those things from others.
High Pressure Water Gun - If you can fashion a sling you can operate the water gun with one if you pressurized it before your walk. Otherwise it will take both hands to put this into operation and it will take practice to use. I use a caribiner and attach the dog to my belt to maintain control and keep both hands free. (See walking gear)
Spray Citronella Spray in front of the oncoming dog or at the dogs face if they are close. Using any kind of spray you must also consider wind direction. If you are not positioned correctly you may unintentionally spray you and your dog.
Carry a small travel umbrella and up it quickly if a dog is getting close.
As a last resort use an air horn to scare the approaching dog. A word of caution, you may traumatize your own dog if you have not desensitized them to the air horn previously. Depending on the dog the risk of unintended consequences may not be worth the risk.
Carry a slip lead. I often carry an extra slip lead in case I need to lasso a loose dog. Sometimes just the sight of the leash in an outstretched hand toward the dog will give a dog pause and they will stay out of reach because they do not want to be leashed.
Although it not advisable for everyone or every circumstance capturing the loose dog as long as you can control both dogs may be a feasible option at times.
Dealing with people can be just as challenging as dealing with loose dogs since it’s not unusual to be faced with people who are well-intention, but are either misinformed or uninformed to put it politely. Some rude people hold the strange opinion that dogs need to learn to accept the rude approach, attention, or space invading from other dogs. When meeting these people you need to be your dog’s advocate and be politely assertive and clearly state your dog does not like dogs unsolicited attention. Reasonable people with take responsibility for their dog’s actions, not offense. But don’t be surprised if you come across people who take offense and not responsibility for their actions. Just be polite and assertive and move on.
Dog to Dog Introductions
Some dogs could be introduced in a closet without incident. But if you are reading this page that does not apply to your dog, nor would I recommend it for any dog. Since we only get one chance to make a good first introduction and impression set dogs up for success. Avoid face to face greeting and any greeting with tension in the leash. If your dog has shown reactivity toward other dogs in the past make sure your dog has been well-exercised before any necessary introductions.
On the day your dogs will meet scent swap the dogs by taking a towel and wiping each dog’s mouth and then their bottom (bum/lift tail and wipe) and then exchange towels and wipe the towel on your dog’s neck and shoulder, both sides. We want the dogs when they do finally meet to pause and quietly say to one another “I’ve think we met before” and only exchange pleasantries like polite society.
DOGS WALK ON THE OUTSIDE
Structure introductions to take place in a new environment that is neutral territory. (not someplace your dog frequents or walks) If we choose a stimulating environment the dogs are more likely to be interested in exploring it and less focused on the other dog. Start with parallel walking at a distance both dogs can maintain some level of self-control. Keep both dogs on the outside of the humans and all walking the same direction. We want the dogs to focus on walking straight ahead and not the other dog. If a dog pulls to get to the other just pull (guide/no jerking) them back to your side and keep walking and the faster the pace the better.
If the dogs get to a point where they are showing no interest in the other dog for a good amount of time we can move the parallel walking a bit closer but not so close either dog lose their mind and become reactive. This can require a long, long walk with some dogs. If both dogs continue to ignore the other dog we can continue to walk a little closer until eventually we get to a converging path if both dogs are still under control, non-reactive and still walking on the outside of the humans. When doing dog to dog intro’s it’s important that both dogs be well-mannered and under control. If they are not, avoid doing any introductions. This requires both dogs to have good loose leash walking skills. Walking on a Loose Leash
At some point I will stop at an interesting place for the dogs like a group of bushes and permit them free time to sniff the surroundings. Many times after they have explored the bushes or area they will greet briefly before I get everyone focused on walking together again. Keep the greeting very brief, maybe 2-seconds and then get moving again. Walk with purpose. When the dogs have ignored each other for at least 30-seconds you can find another interesting place for them to stop and explore. I would continue this until they are good at ignoring one another and focused on walking and exploring. It’s important that we don’t misinterpret “no reaction” as “calm”, “comfortable” or “confident.” There is a big difference between a dog that approaches another with a soft fluid body and a look of relaxation, and another who slowly, cautiously or tensely moves toward another.
Once the dogs are truly comfortable and/or ignoring one another only then would I consider taking them inside a home together. But before taking the dogs into a home (or business) remove anything a dog may consider theirs; e.g. water and food bowls, bed, toys, etc… If their are two dogs in total place 3 new water and food bowls down preferably ones that are different from the one the dog was previously eating using. (I prefer stainless steel bowls) If at all possible place the new bowls in a different location even if its only a couple feet from the old location. Do the same with beds If two dogs, place 3 beds down neither dog has used before. We don’t want any dog to start a new conversation with the words “mine” which can start a conflict. If introducing new toys follow the 50-300 rule.
Only after the dogs are still exercising self-control would I walk them into the home (or business) and attempt to manage any interactions keeping them brief. Review the page on Multi-Dog homes for more guidance.
Understanding Anxiety & How to Help Your Dog
Focus on understanding the things that set your dog off and how to work through those issues to see improvement and build skills. Developing our knowledge and skills goes a long way in helping us feel and be more in control.
Aggression Basics by Suzanne Clotheir
Reactivity / Aggression
Reactivity toward People
Sounds; Fears, Phobias & Reactivity
Medical Issues Associated with Reactivity & Aggression
Health & Microbiome Effect on Behavior
Food Intolerance/Sensitivity
Developmental Periods
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